from italie to france

today is saturday I think and I can barely type as this is quite a different keyboard and I just drank Domaine Tempier 2008 white followed by a non Domaine Tempier but very tasty Bandol red wine with a very delightful lunch in the company of Craigs old friends from 1985 to 1995, last visit, Catherine and JeanMarie Peyraud and Catherines mother who is about 96 but does not miss a beat. They are retired from helping to run their family vineyard Domaine Tempier with their father and brother, nowadays spending more time on a great hilltop above Bandol France overlooking a lot of the coast.

I would like to write just a little more about the Cinque Terre because our 3rd day there was very special. For our daily hike we started by going by train back to RioMaggiore which was very very appealing early in the day, we sat on the breakwater watching fishermen load lines and early morning vegetable shopping, then quickly strolled along the coast to Manarola which is our favorite town to eat in. From there we took a shuttle bus up to a little town very untouristified and pleasant with 4 foot wide lanes and pleasant locals. Trail 6d goes north from there on a long traverse climbing slightly up the grape terraces. The terraces are so steep the ocean glimmers so far below it is magical not too scary. We passed a man pruning his vines way below us, with his red swiss pruning shears just like mine. The first third of the trail was all very high vineyards, the trail usually about half meter wide on the edge of a very old sandstone shale dry wall usually dropping off about a meter and a half. finally we skirted some old stone farmhouses stuccoed red and yellow and rose into some chestnut and pine wood canyons; still our destination town was far far below us. last the trail came down a steep but stone paved trail through old olive groves. Getting safely to town in Corniglia we had some red wine with pesto and Im no longer sure what; I know later that day at La Torre restaurant way above vernazza we had pesto lasagne, mussels in a seafood pasta and anchovies cooked with tomatoes and potatoes.

Anyway that night we said goodbye to nona Elia and the other delightful residents of Vernazza and most of the tourists because after that day thursday we have hardly seen any non europeans. from early morning friday til late afternoon we hopped from one italian train to another up to the border Vermiglia where we all had to make a run for the waiting French train. Quelle difference; immediately life became smoother, the trains had snack carts, everyone spoke soothing french and no longer interrupted each other; we did see one young kid get caught by the french train police for having incorrect train ticket stamps which was kinda interesting but he looked pretty sheepish not ruffianlike. The coastline immediately became entrancing as soon as we crossed from the gray sand italian riviera; the french riviera has handsome rocks, bays, coves, white sand and stunning mountains and hills behind

the place we are staying now is way high on the crest of a hill, a home that is designed somewhat star shaped in a really nice synthesis of provence farmhouse plus modern floor to ceiling windows; cool tile floors, really nice travel mementoes to enjoy on the walls but the real pleasure besides our hosts is the views; on 3 sides the hillside drops down to show not too distant bays and hills and some very special white stone topped peaks and some of the large white headlands above the calanque bays to the west of here towards Marseille. Today we went to the fish and vegetable market in the town just east of bandol before toulon; now after seeing the very lovely displays of the fresh lettuces tomatoes crownshaped artichokes endives and green beans qnd other vegetables; the carefully coiled sausages and other charcuterie and the sparkling array of fish I kindof understand what propelled the californians who studied provencal cooking to start our farmers markets up, Our hosts bought an enormous fresh caught tuna portion and oysters driven overnight from Isle de Re; and we had oysters homemqde bread a zingy salad and tuna with sweet onions and herbs: the tuna has distinctly different belly and steak tastes: the wine and then coffee was perfect: time to nap

but not till I recall for dinner last night the moussaka and the chard stems sauteed with herbs with domaine te,pier 2008 rosee and 2007 classique red just bottled this summer........